What size is your aluminum profile and where did you get it?

The aluminum profile on my large CNC is 80/20 series 10 (1″ x 3″).  I got it from 80/20’s store on Ebay.  The store name is 8020inc.

If I were do it again I would use a larger profile like the 15 series or the 10 series in 2″ X 4″ inch size.

The KR33 CNC uses the same series 10 profile but it’s 2″ x 2″ in size.

What did your large CNC machine cost to build?

The first version that I built in 2007 cost around $900 not including software.  The latest version is up to $1750.

What program(s) do you use to create your designs?

I use a combination of OnShape and SolidWorks.

Do you have blueprints, CAD or a BOM for your designs?


I often tell people that my machine built itself and by that I mean it’s size and design were dictated by what materials and parts I could find on Ebay.

Can you design and/or build and CNC for me?

Not at this time…  I don’t have the needed equipment and space to produce additional machines.  At some point this could change but for now I must say no.

Can you build a CNC from wood, plastic, Legos, popsicle sticks...?

Yes you can. The better question is “should you?” How accurate do you want your CNC to be? What will you be cutting? How fast do you want it to go? All relevant questions that will guide you to what you should make your CNC from. The more rigid and tight your machine is the better your tolerances or precision will be in general. The hardest and strongest material will always win. Make sure your CNC is stronger than the material you are trying to machine.

What have you cut with your machine?

I have cut hardwood, softwood, plywood, MDF, plastics (Lexan, HDPE, UHMW, ABS, acrylic, polystyrene, nylon, polycarbonate etc) and aluminum with no problems.

If you knew then what you know now, what would you do differently?

  1. As I mentioned above, I’d use larger aluminum profile on my machine.  I really like the 80/20 series 10 in the 2″ x 4″ size but it would still depend on the length of travel you are looking for. Especially in the X axis section that has the IKO linear rail mounted to it.
  2. I’d use 2 identical ballscrews to drive the Y axis from both uprights.  This would prevent the possibility of binding if I’m cutting off center of the X axis as well as allow me to drive it harder without loosing position and in general make the machine even more accurate.

What are the best ways to help support Neo7CNC?

The best ways to help support Neo7CNC financially are by using Patreon or PayPal.  Any donation is greatly appreciated.  You can also send items in to the show.

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