Saw front with pusher arm control box and shuttle

Arduino / ClearPatch Servo Controlled Chop Saw Stop

By | 3D Printing, DIY, How-To, Non-CNC, Start to Finish | No Comments
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This project has been rolling around in my head for a long time.  More than a year in fact.  With the help of the ClearPath “pulse burst mode” servo from Teknic it is now a reality.  I hadn’t heard of this mode of operation until talking with Teknic but it turned out to be a perfect fit.  I’ve used the Clearpath “step and direction” servos on my 2 CNC machines for a few years, ever since one of my viewers turned me onto them (thanks Anthony:)

This project turned out better than I could have hoped. It’s simple to use and extremely precise, like 0.00067 inches precise.  That’s 0.017mm for the rest of the world. I dare say, for woodworking…   it’s spot on.  The wood will move on it’s own more than that amount.

This project isn’t very complicated.  I’d love to see others build it and see how they do it differently.  I’ve included a list of all the main components that went into this build. The digital resouces, like Arduino code, libraries and part files will be available via the link at the bottom of the page.

If there’s something I missed or you need more detail, let me know.

Project Pictures

Project Videos

Links and Sources

Teknic ClearPath Servo and Power Supply Details

ClearPath servo from Teknic as built – Model CPM-MCPV-3432S-ELN after proof of concept, could have used CPM-MCPV-3411S-ELN (still pulse burst mode type)

Teknic ClearPath controller cable and IPC-5 power cable (if used) – Cables

Teknic 75vdc power supply – Model IPC-5 (a 48vdc power supply could also have been used)


Items from Amazon – Using these links helps support the channel and doesn’t cost you any more.  Thanks for your support!

Generic DC Barrel Jack 5.5×2.1mm 12V Panel Mount for Wall Supplies (pack of 10 – you need 1)

BUD Industries NBF-32016 Plastic ABS NEMA INDOOR USE 11-51/64″ L x 7-55/64″ W x 5-7/64″ H, Light Gray Finish (for power supply)

BUD Industries NBX-32916-PL ABS Plastic Internal Panel, 10-1/2″ L x 6-11/16″ W x 1/8″ Thick, for NBF Series Boxes (for power supply)

BUD Industries NBF-32012 Plastic ABS NEMA Economy Box, 7-55/64″ L x 5-57/64″ W x 3-59/64″ H, Light Gray Finish (for Arduino)

Electronics-Salon Nylon Round Spacer Assortment Kit, for M3 Screws, Plastic

Adafruit Proto Shield for Arduino Kit – Stackable Version R3

4×4 16 Key Matrix Membrane Switch Keypad Keyboard 76x69x0.8mm

2x Switch 6a/250v 10a/125v Black Kcd1-105 Spst On-off Panel Round Rocker A8

RGB LCD Shield Kit with 16×2 Character Negative Display-Uses Only 2 Pins

Arduino A000067 Dev Board, ATMEGA2560, Arduino MEGA 2560 R3

80/20 Inc., 2020, 10 Series, 2″ x 2″ T-Slotted Extrusion x 97″

80/20 Inc., 6724, 10 Series, 4″ Double Flange Linear Bearing

RAM Mount 2-1/2″ Diameter Base w/1.5″ Ball (you need 1)

RAM Mounts (RAM-103U) 1.5 Inch Ball Double Socket Arm with 2.5 Inch Round Base


Additional Hardware

Onvio pulleys and mount plate – pulley part# OV107843 (AT5, 22 teeth, Dual Flange, 0.5in Bore), AT5 clamp plate Part# 5005092

Gates Mectrol – Belting AT5 / 32mm wide, polyurethane with steel tension members, Approximately 12 feet needed as shown in video

Icotek cable pass through – Used on power supply enclosure – Model KEL-ER product page 

1/2 motor coupler halve (you need 2) from McMaster-Carr

Coupling spider for motor coupler from McMaster

1/2 inch nylon plastic spacers from McMaster

Loc-Tite 648 from McMaster-Carr (clean parts with alcohol before assembly)

2 inch long aluminum spacer from McMaster-Carr (you need 6)

0.5 inch shafting from McMaster-Carr

Leveling feet from McMaster-Carr

(Pack of 2) Flanged Ball Bearings Precision Sealed 1/2″ ID x 1-3/8″ OD G8


Additional Video Resources from Teknic

ClearPath servo overview

Connecting a ClearPath servo to Arduino 

Using the MSP software with ClearPath Servos

Auto tuning the Clearpath servo


Fusion 360 Design Files

Neo7CNC keypad and LCD template

NEMA34 motor mount plate

Free end pulley bracket as seen in video

Servo end pulley bracket as seen in video

[Better Version – You’ll need 2] Pulley bracket LEFT 

[Better Version – You’ll need 2] Pulley bracket RIGHT

Enclosure air filter frame – SMALL

Enclosure air filter frame – LARGE


Download Link for Source Code and Technical Instructions

Neo7CNC - Chop Saw Clamp with Valve

DIY Pneumatic Saw Clamp – Neo7CNC

By | DIY, Non-CNC, Start to Finish | No Comments

DIY Pneumatic Saw Clamp

I made one of theses many years ago when I was helping my father with a shop he was building.  We were using very long 2×4’s and this style pneumatic clamp helped hold the extra long boards while we cut them down to a more manageable size.  It can also save a finger or two by keeping your hands aware from the blade in the event that things go sideways 😐


What you’ll need:

Your saw or other application may vary, so these parts are just examples based on what I’m showing in the video. The pneumatic components directly below are from 

  1. AVS-53D2-HL 5 port 2 position toggle valve 1/4 NPT (Qty 1)
  2. A17020SN 1 and 1/16 bore 2 inch stroke 1/8 FNPT spring return air cylinder (Qty 1)
  3. SBC-14N Bronze cone silencer 1/4 MNTP (Qty 2)
  4. MS14-14N Male straight 1/4 tub to 1/4 MNPT (Qty 3)
  5. BFRHP-14N recessed hex head plug 1/4 MNPT (Qty 1)
  6. PU14BLK100 Black poly urethane 1/4 OD tubing 100ft (varries)
  7. ME14-18N 1/4 tubing to 1/8 MNPT (Qty 1) OR if you want to control the flow of air into the pneumatic cylinder so it doesn’t move so abruptly then use FVR14-18N flow control valve meter IN for 1/4 tubing to 1/8 MNPT (Qty 1)

Along with the pneumatic items above, you’ll also need:

Some material to mount the pneumatic cylinder.  I used 3/16 (4.76mm) thick x 1.5 inch (38.1mm) wide flat steel bar.  The piece that connected the 5/8 bolt (15.875mm) to the pneumatic cylinder is 6.5 inches (165.1mm) long.  The “spring” top piece is 4 inches (101.6mm) long.  The 5/8 bolt was 10 inches long and it fit the clamp hole on the saw perfectly.  I used 2 5/8 nuts to sandwich the 2 pieces of flat bar.  I didn’t have a large enough drill bit to drill the 5/8 hole and cylinder hole properly. I ended up using an old step drill bit that was large enough to get us there.  It wasn’t pretty, but it got the job done. The last thing you’ll need is something to mount on the end of the pneumatic cylinder so you don’t damage your work piece when you clamp it.  I used a small section of UHMW rod.  You can find small lengths at McMaster-Carr (1 inch (25mm) rod a foot long for @ $3 at the time of this post) or you can use a rubber stopper or wood. You’ll also need to use one of the MS14-14N connectors and either plumb it to your air supply or mate it with a quick air hose disconnect.