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Start to Finish

Saw front with pusher arm control box and shuttle

Arduino / ClearPatch Servo Controlled Chop Saw Stop

By | 3D Printing, DIY, How-To, Non-CNC, Start to Finish | No Comments
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This project has been rolling around in my head for a long time.  More than a year in fact.  With the help of the ClearPath “pulse burst mode” servo from Teknic it is now a reality.  I hadn’t heard of this mode of operation until talking with Teknic but it turned out to be a perfect fit.  I’ve used the Clearpath “step and direction” servos on my 2 CNC machines for a few years, ever since one of my viewers turned me onto them (thanks Anthony:)

This project turned out better than I could have hoped. It’s simple to use and extremely precise, like 0.00067 inches precise.  That’s 0.017mm for the rest of the world. I dare say, for woodworking…   it’s spot on.  The wood will move on it’s own more than that amount.

This project isn’t very complicated.  I’d love to see others build it and see how they do it differently.  I’ve included a list of all the main components that went into this build. The digital resouces, like Arduino code, libraries and part files will be available via the link at the bottom of the page.

If there’s something I missed or you need more detail, let me know.

Project Pictures

Project Videos

Links and Sources

Teknic ClearPath Servo and Power Supply Details

ClearPath servo from Teknic as built – Model CPM-MCPV-3432S-ELN after proof of concept, could have used CPM-MCPV-3411S-ELN (still pulse burst mode type)

Teknic ClearPath controller cable and IPC-5 power cable (if used) – Cables

Teknic 75vdc power supply – Model IPC-5 (a 48vdc power supply could also have been used)

 

Items from Amazon – Using these links helps support the channel and doesn’t cost you any more.  Thanks for your support!

Generic DC Barrel Jack 5.5×2.1mm 12V Panel Mount for Wall Supplies (pack of 10 – you need 1) http://amzn.to/2gZ68Li

BUD Industries NBF-32016 Plastic ABS NEMA INDOOR USE 11-51/64″ L x 7-55/64″ W x 5-7/64″ H, Light Gray Finish (for power supply) http://amzn.to/2xsGzZQ

BUD Industries NBX-32916-PL ABS Plastic Internal Panel, 10-1/2″ L x 6-11/16″ W x 1/8″ Thick, for NBF Series Boxes (for power supply) http://amzn.to/2wWPKjJ

BUD Industries NBF-32012 Plastic ABS NEMA Economy Box, 7-55/64″ L x 5-57/64″ W x 3-59/64″ H, Light Gray Finish (for Arduino) http://amzn.to/2gYLyqH

Electronics-Salon Nylon Round Spacer Assortment Kit, for M3 Screws, Plastic http://amzn.to/2wWI156

Adafruit Proto Shield for Arduino Kit – Stackable Version R3 http://amzn.to/2y153Gy

4×4 16 Key Matrix Membrane Switch Keypad Keyboard 76x69x0.8mm http://amzn.to/2y0Xfop

2x Switch 6a/250v 10a/125v Black Kcd1-105 Spst On-off Panel Round Rocker A8 http://amzn.to/2y168hA

RGB LCD Shield Kit with 16×2 Character Negative Display-Uses Only 2 Pins http://amzn.to/2xsBy3k

Arduino A000067 Dev Board, ATMEGA2560, Arduino MEGA 2560 R3 http://amzn.to/2h0SKCm

80/20 Inc., 2020, 10 Series, 2″ x 2″ T-Slotted Extrusion x 97″ http://amzn.to/2f1fTI5

80/20 Inc., 6724, 10 Series, 4″ Double Flange Linear Bearing http://amzn.to/2jk4dSf

RAM Mount 2-1/2″ Diameter Base w/1.5″ Ball (you need 1) http://amzn.to/2f1IUn5

RAM Mounts (RAM-103U) 1.5 Inch Ball Double Socket Arm with 2.5 Inch Round Base http://amzn.to/2w3k1P0

 

Additional Hardware

Onvio pulleys and mount plate – pulley part# OV107843 (AT5, 22 teeth, Dual Flange, 0.5in Bore), AT5 clamp plate Part# 5005092

Gates Mectrol – Belting AT5 / 32mm wide, polyurethane with steel tension members, Approximately 12 feet needed as shown in video

Icotek cable pass through – Used on power supply enclosure – Model KEL-ER product page 

1/2 motor coupler halve (you need 2) from McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/#9845t2/=19hitwp

Coupling spider for motor coupler from McMaster https://www.mcmaster.com/#9845t14/=19hiubb

1/2 inch nylon plastic spacers from McMaster https://www.mcmaster.com/#90295a492/=19hiv2q

Loc-Tite 648 from McMaster-Carr (clean parts with alcohol before assembly) https://www.mcmaster.com/#91458a801/=19hit9b

2 inch long aluminum spacer from McMaster-Carr (you need 6) https://www.mcmaster.com/#92511a085/=19hishb

0.5 inch shafting from McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/#1346k17/=19hiru9

Leveling feet from McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/#2531k61/=19hiqsq

(Pack of 2) Flanged Ball Bearings Precision Sealed 1/2″ ID x 1-3/8″ OD G8 http://amzn.to/2wlTLe9

 

Additional Video Resources from Teknic

ClearPath servo overview

Connecting a ClearPath servo to Arduino 

Using the MSP software with ClearPath Servos

Auto tuning the Clearpath servo

 

Fusion 360 Design Files

Neo7CNC keypad and LCD template http://a360.co/2xz9GJW

NEMA34 motor mount plate http://a360.co/2jXhoIO

Free end pulley bracket as seen in video http://a360.co/2xz4rdc

Servo end pulley bracket as seen in video http://a360.co/2jVRIfH

[Better Version – You’ll need 2] Pulley bracket LEFT http://a360.co/2xumxLy 

[Better Version – You’ll need 2] Pulley bracket RIGHT http://a360.co/2wQtMf7

Enclosure air filter frame – SMALL http://a360.co/2wQwqS3

Enclosure air filter frame – LARGE http://a360.co/2wQbiex

 

Download Link for Source Code and Technical Instructions

Neo7CNC-Arduino-Clearpath-Chop-Saw-Stop.zip

Neo7CNC - Chop Saw Clamp with Valve

DIY Pneumatic Saw Clamp – Neo7CNC

By | DIY, Non-CNC, Start to Finish | No Comments

DIY Pneumatic Saw Clamp

I made one of theses many years ago when I was helping my father with a shop he was building.  We were using very long 2×4’s and this style pneumatic clamp helped hold the extra long boards while we cut them down to a more manageable size.  It can also save a finger or two by keeping your hands aware from the blade in the event that things go sideways 😐

 

What you’ll need:

Your saw or other application may vary, so these parts are just examples based on what I’m showing in the video. The pneumatic components directly below are from AutomationDirect.com 

  1. AVS-53D2-HL 5 port 2 position toggle valve 1/4 NPT (Qty 1)
  2. A17020SN 1 and 1/16 bore 2 inch stroke 1/8 FNPT spring return air cylinder (Qty 1)
  3. SBC-14N Bronze cone silencer 1/4 MNTP (Qty 2)
  4. MS14-14N Male straight 1/4 tub to 1/4 MNPT (Qty 3)
  5. BFRHP-14N recessed hex head plug 1/4 MNPT (Qty 1)
  6. PU14BLK100 Black poly urethane 1/4 OD tubing 100ft (varries)
  7. ME14-18N 1/4 tubing to 1/8 MNPT (Qty 1) OR if you want to control the flow of air into the pneumatic cylinder so it doesn’t move so abruptly then use FVR14-18N flow control valve meter IN for 1/4 tubing to 1/8 MNPT (Qty 1)

Along with the pneumatic items above, you’ll also need:

Some material to mount the pneumatic cylinder.  I used 3/16 (4.76mm) thick x 1.5 inch (38.1mm) wide flat steel bar.  The piece that connected the 5/8 bolt (15.875mm) to the pneumatic cylinder is 6.5 inches (165.1mm) long.  The “spring” top piece is 4 inches (101.6mm) long.  The 5/8 bolt was 10 inches long and it fit the clamp hole on the saw perfectly.  I used 2 5/8 nuts to sandwich the 2 pieces of flat bar.  I didn’t have a large enough drill bit to drill the 5/8 hole and cylinder hole properly. I ended up using an old step drill bit that was large enough to get us there.  It wasn’t pretty, but it got the job done. The last thing you’ll need is something to mount on the end of the pneumatic cylinder so you don’t damage your work piece when you clamp it.  I used a small section of UHMW rod.  You can find small lengths at McMaster-Carr (1 inch (25mm) rod a foot long for @ $3 at the time of this post) or you can use a rubber stopper or wood. You’ll also need to use one of the MS14-14N connectors and either plumb it to your air supply or mate it with a quick air hose disconnect.

Neo7CNC LED CNC Machine Can Light – Start to Finish

By | CNC, Software, Start to Finish | No Comments

LED Can Light – Start to Finish

In this start to finish project we go through the entire process from Ideal to finished part.  First we do the 3d design on the computer using Onshape.  We then CAM (create the tool paths that tell the CNC machine how to actually cut the part) using BobCAD/CAM.  Next we use a 5C collet fixture to hold the stock and test cut the part in plastic.  Finally we cut the design from 1 inch (25mm) 6061-T6 aluminum bar stock.  The lens is made from 1/8 frosted acrylic. You can tell in the pictures that this process made a big mess! The tolerances on the lens were “spot on”.  The KR33 CNC is a beast of a little machine

I polished the aluminum version and that made it pop.  It’s a nice, compact unit.  I still need to finish them and mount them to the machines.  One issue I have is finding good wire to use.